Organic coffee, wine, and chocolate

While organic produce is gaining support, many--particularly connoisseurs--are still wary of organic specialty goods, such as coffee, wine, and chocolate. Some people claim that organic _____ is lower quality because there is less emphasis on overall product quality and there are fewer organic options available to producers, so they cannot be as picky (similar arguments are also heard against fair trade). They also argue that, since many consumers care strongly about the label 'organic,' inferior-quality products fare better in the marketplace than they would otherwise. In general, I think organic is good, but I will give a run-down of common arguments for and against on organic wine, coffee, and chocolate.

Wine first, since that's the area I know least about. However, I do know that imported grapes are among the worst fruit to buy conventionally grown (see my earlier article on organics). It makes since to me that wine made with conventionally-grown imported grapes would thus also be a bad choice and contain high concentrations of harmful pesticides. Also, there is a difference between organic wine and wine made with organically grown grapes. Organic wine can contain no added sulfites and has a limit on the amount of natural sulfites present. Wine made with organic grapes does not. Sulfites are a preservative with antimicrobial and antioxidant properties. Its health effects are under debate, but some people are sensitive to them in a negative way.

Coffee next. In the past, coffee purists have disdained organic coffee with the justification that it is lower quality. With the increasing amount of coffee being grown organically, however, and more grower knowledge about not only good organic farming methods, but also good coffee growing methods in general, the quality has drastically improved and even many purists are starting to turn to organic coffees. Some people still dislike organic decaffeinated coffee because they argue that it wastes coffee during the Swiss water discaffeination process and has less flavor than conventionally decaffeinated coffee. (Currently, the Swiss water process is the only organic method of decaffeination.) However, others complain that they can taste the chemicals used to decaffeinate conventional decaf coffee. There is still quite some debate over which method is preferred, or if people should drink decaf at all (!). As a result of selective breeding of coffee plants, scientists have discovered a naturally uncaffeinated coffee bean, so that may be the way to go in the future. (Check out http://www.guardian.co.uk/science/2004/jun/24/food.research) At any rate, remember that all decaffeinated coffee has trace amounts of caffeine. Organic decaf coffee has no more than conventional decaf coffee, and any potential decrease in quality between organic and non-organic coffee is undetectable to the average consumer but much better for the environment and growers!

Finally, chocolate. There is still a strong prejudice against organic chocolate among many chocolate connoisseurs, who complain that the flavor is far inferior. Many claim that the reason many organic chocolate bars contain additional flavors (orange, mint, etc) or ingredients (e.g., nuts) is to disguise the lower quality taste of the chocolate. However, as with wine and chocolate, there has been an explosion in the last 10 to 15 years in the number and type of organic chocolate growers. At this point, it is safe to say that organic chocolate varies greatly in quality--just like conventionally grown chocolate. Once again, many chocolate buyers interested in quality organic chocolate have taken the opportunity to educate the growers they work with about good organic farming methods as well as good chocolate growing methods in general. Particularly for the average chocolate consumer, I would suggest ignoring the connoisseurs on this one and trying it for yourself!